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Chapter 17: The Salty and the Sweet (Uyuni)

On a salt-lakes tour with five Brazilian boys, a dodgy 4WD consistently breaks down which synchonistically provided an opportunity to literally dance on clouds (and take some incredible photos). On New Years Eve the girls reunite in a remote conglomerate of hostels and in one small room people from all over the world sing, dance and cheer. The New Year begins with the end of a drought and an explosion of fireworks.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOxAluuS8Y4[/youtube]

Music Credits:

I’m Yours, Jason Mraz.

What a Wonderful World, Louis Armstrong.

Chapter 16: Nunca say Nunca

A few bad decisions lead to a few disasters but “don’t worry be happy”… there’s a miracle or two just around the bend…

A race through Puno and a beautiful sunset on Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) on Lake Titicaca in Bolivia, is followed by another race through the witches markets in La Paz and finally, slicing time to the second, we stepped onto a bus that would soon turn my life upside down.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wm-c63ZTbGY[/youtube]

Nunca say Nunca. Never say Never.


De ja vu? Hair

“What do you think?” She asked me.

“Ah… It’s ok.” I said
id, frowning at my reflection. “I’m not quite sure how you got that,” I looked to the mirror, “from this” observing the photo in my hands. The cut is not so bad. Nor is the colour. But it does NOT in the slightest look like the picture I had diligently printed out in hope of clearly communicating the colour and cut I was after.

I’ll survive. I’ve definitely had worse. After giving me green hair (from a henna mask) a hairdresser (in Japan) turned it purple (very strong toner).

If it doesn’t kill you it makes you stronger. Hair grows fast enough and in a few weeks it will be the length I was after. Maybe I’ll pull out some Sun-In left over from high-school days, and take matters into my own hands – desperate times call for desperate measures. Or maybe I should simply accept that these things happen for a reason and hope this haircut brings with it its own.

Yet the question still persists: why don’t hairdressers listen? This is not the first time it has happened to me, and I don’t think I’m alone in this question. How, when given a picture of a haircut and colour (that is totally compatible with the hair on your head) do a colourist and stylist create their own interpretation and leave you to sport something completely different???

Don’t get me wrong. I love my hairdresser and will surely go back there, probably with the same picture and probably expecting to leave with something completely different again. Why will I go back? Because every hairdresser seems to be the same: you NEVER get what you want. And it’s always a heck lot better than I can do with my own scissors or homemade dyes – been there done that – which always looks better in one’s mind than its manifestation in reality. Urgh. HAIR. Now I remember why I shaved it off.

Sex and the city

Sydney is my New York. And I am Carrie Bradshaw, sitting at my computer with an apple (or cachaca & pineapple as it is), pondering and writing about life, love and the city that is my new home.

I’ve been here just one week and already “getting to know” some people in my building and neighbourhood. It’s not quite sex in the city – I don’t move that fast – but coffees, dinners, muscley men helping move furniture and maybe just a little besos.

This week I also managed to host a couple of chrissy celebrations – with girls from school, with my South America travel buddies and other friends from here and there. With New Years Eve generally a non-event for me in Sydney I have been considering cramming my studio with a “traffic light” party – where you where red if your taken, orange if your not sure and green if you are ready to go! I’ve never been to one but it sounds like a fun way to combine housewarming with NYE and help singles meet other singles. Even if cupid doesn’t make any matches at least it would involve bright colours, Brazilian drinks, and the celebration of 2010 with a bang – fireworks at Bondi that is… 🙂

Dilemmas of the Mercury Retrograde

“Since Mercury rules communication, it’s said that everything goes haywire in that area — emails get deleted or bounced back, mail is returned, calls go out into the ethers, etc.” (www.astrology.about.com)

So put it into your diary: December 26th to January 15th, 2010. In 2010 it’s April 17 – May 11; August 20 – September 12; and December 10 – December 29. So try to get your technology organised long before it begins. Allow extra time for getting to places and have a book handy to read when people arrive late, plans get mixed up, have backup plans for the no shows etc etc. Don’t move house. Learn from my experience these last few days.

Mercury Retrograde hit me early. Today I managed to get a tape stuck in my car’s cassette player (yes my car is from the stone age, or the 90s) and continue to suffer the consequences of rash decisions involving ordering electricals over the net. My recommendation – don’t do it. Go to a shop instead. Nothing replaced face-to-face communication.

Not only did I have to wait more than a week and make a number of calls just to discover my new iPhone and modem were sitting at the post office, but now the only way I can talk about the stupid snail-pace modem is to call and sit on hold for hours. Did I mention I hate technology?

Last night (I admit, after a couple of beers,) I managed to drop my old phone in the toilet of Four N’Hand (my new local!) I hadn’t even flushed! I know what you’re wondering… Yes. I did do it.

Flushing first (praying the phone wouldn’t disappear down the rabbit hole) I put my hand into the basin and fished out the screaming Nokia. He was not a happy chappy. I took him apart and dried him out but alas, this morning he took his last breath.

No more phone. But of course, it’s meant to be, right? I have an iphone sitting on my desk patiently awaiting its awakening. So first thing this morning I walked up to the local Virgin store.

“First you need your account number from Vodafone.” Vodafone was a few shops down so that was easy enough.

“How much will it cost to terminate my plan early?” I asked, praying for a small figure, a small figure, please a small figure.

“Around $30.” Phew!

“Just one more question,” I said to the Vodafone sales clerk. “My bills have dramatically increased in the last few months, I’ve cut down this month but can you please just tell me where my latest bill is at?”

… “$280”

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

I have a $49 cap that I thought I never exceeded until two weeks ago I received a bill for $160. That was bad enough. Now $280??? What the? What the? I didn’t think I’d been making more calls than usual.

Another hour was spent on their phones to their head office, discussing what the heck was going on. They managed to halve my bill, from which I was more than grateful for although the sceptic had not quite shut up. $280 is more than outrageous.

Returning to the Virgin counter with my account number I made another wonderful discovery – the iphone’s sim card holder was gone.

“It’s probably on the floor of my apartment,” I told her. But it wasn’t. I engaged in yet another horrifically disgusting experience, going through the garbage I had thrown out that morning. An image of a little square piece of plastic sitting inside a banana peel or some kind of rotting vegetable scrap entered my mind. No luck there either. I moped around in frustration. Surely it would be here somewhere, I thought as I comforted myself with a large bag of gingerbread cookies (thank you Lisa)…

Eventually I gave up. With no energy to walk back to the junction I jumped in my car. Traffic. Parking. F**king HELL. Next time I will walk.

“You might have to go to the Apple Store on George St to get another one,” they told me when I finally made it to the Virgin shop. “But try the accessory shop first.” Eighty bucks later (twenty on the tiny square of plastic, and sixty on other “essential” screen covers and protectors) and finally I could leave the manic mall. Once I could locate my car, that is. If you know Bondi’s Westfield Carpark, you know that knowing your car is on “P3” is not enough to locate it. Try other entrance. And another one. Eventually I found it.

So here I am. Back in my little paradise that really does feel like home. Still of course with Internet that doesn’t work (currently using my mother’s prepaid 3 modem which happens to work fine) and getting out my anger writing this blog is even more therapeutic than the ginger cookies. And even better, Leigh, my techno-savvy saviour, helped save the day – now I have a phone that works (even if it’s a different number for a short while) and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Mercury Retrograde leaves me alone for a little while. I’m optimistic. But I’m prepared. Are you?

Chapter 14: Inferma en Amor (Cusco)

This time last year we finally arrived in Cusco having travelled the long way round from Lima through Huacachina (the sanddunes), Nasca (the alien lines in rocks) and Areiquipa (the monastery town of white walls and large volcanoes).

Not sure if it was the excessive number of hours we were spending sleeping (or trying to sleep) on buses, or the high altitudes we were reaching, but by the time we reached Arequeipa I was sick. Very sick. The photos footage was less and less interesting as I spent most of my time in bed and in a coffee shop with wifi. Eventually we made it to Cusco, the old Inca town nearby Machu Picchu. It was raining when we arrived and all I wanted to do was “get up to Machu Picchu and get out of there”… but when the sun came out so did the old city. It glowed. Sitting amongst the mountains one could feel the deep magic of this historic town.

On top the sickness penetrating my head I received the wonderful pre-Christmas gift of a terrible tummy bug. Now I was completely bed ridden in The Point, a hostel known for its wild parties.

Everything happens for a reason. In my case a special encounter from the distance of my sick state on a hostel bunk,would initiate a fast-paced romantic adventure through Bolivia, down the Chilean coast and beyond…

That is why in Cusco I was “inferma en amor” – sick with love.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ_FLksB_A0[/youtube]

Burbs to buzz

Arrrhhhh moving house ain’t easy. I am writing now from a chair that’s too high for my desk surrounded by piles of clothes, computer gear, papers, and empty boxes; frustrated that the internet connection I was waiting to be delivered was (after many-a phone calls) sitting at the post office; and even more frustrated so by the fact that the connection it is giving me is as slow as dial-up. I’m frustrated by trying to turn on the gas and every gas company telling me they don’t have service my apartment block and sending me on a wild goose chase. Then there are the mirrors and photographs falling off the wall due to stick-on hooks that claim to hold 1.5kg yet won’t hold 500g to save its life. Damn it.

All this being said I must say that I am so ridiculously happy it’s ridiculous. This morning I walked five minutes down the road and I was at Rushcutters Bay. The other night not far off midnight I walked five minutes in another direction to arrive at Double Bay Woolworths to get some detergent. Can’t to that in The Burbs. The block I’m in contains small studio flats which appear full of young good looking single men 🙂 Or maybe it’s just compared to the view I’m used to in the burbs. I didn’t realise how much I missed the city buzz.

Yesterday I returned to Frenchs Forest to pick up a few more boxes of books and what not. I walked along my daily route to my mum’s house and was surprised how alien it felt. Big empty roads. Big houses. Families. Elderly. It’s been less than a week but I feel at home in my new home already. People, music, shops, bars – life.

There’s even a pub on my corner that has Kirin on tap, my favourite Japanese beer, that brings back memories of sculling competitions against rugby boys (that more often than not I won!). Actually setting up house in this small studio brings back many memories of Japan, the only other place I signed a lease. My flat is about the same size as my Tokyo one, although the kitchen and bathroom are a bit bigger, and this time I have a small balcony. Unfortunately this one is missing tatami floors and the massive floor to ceiling storage space the Japanese design so well. Also this time the whole apartment is just for me: my photos on walls, my mess on the floor, my shampoos in the shower, my boxes of stuff to unpack (thanks to my Dad’s tetris packing skills) and my red click clack sofa bed (thanks to my Mum’s brilliant e-bay skills). It’s a new fresh start for me. I wonder what adventures 2010 will bring.

In the meantime Christmas is just a week away and in all amongst the craziness of the last few months and the move gift shopping has been the last thing on my mind. Thank goodness for late late late night shopping…

Chapter 9: Garden of Secrets (Vilcabamba)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNVlPcKK83o[/youtube]

Vilcabamba is famous for its people’s longevity (living to 120 on average), its spectacular sky-scapes and normalised UFO sightings. At the Secret Garden hostel the girls meet Mark, an older American conspiracy theorist, who opens their eyes to a whole new perspective of the happenings around the world. A Vilcabamban boy who works at the hostel joins the girls for a glass of regional wine and shares with them the town’s history and secrets. Rachel and Juliet discuss religion, peace and Juliet tells her about “Creativist” philosophy – discovering a life that values creativity over materialism.